"9419Singapore Cat puncture wounds pet health and welfare educational for animal lovers, excerpts from The Glamorous Vets, Singapore, sponsored by  AsiaHomes Internet.

Info on CAT VACCINATION (bottom of page).

From:
http://www.vetmed.iastate.edu/vth/derm/flea/

Introduction to the Flea

There are four stages in the life cycle of the flea: egg, larva (three stages), pupa (cocoon), and adult. Adult fleas prefer to live on the host animal, but are often dislodged by scratching. Eggs are laid on the animal, but are quite smooth and easily fall off into the environment. Larva hatch from the egg and undergo approximately three molts, progressively becoming larger. Larva live off of organic debris, including flea dirt, the dried blood-feces of the adult flea.  The third stage of the flea larva makes a cocoon where the adult flea develops. The egg, larval, and pupal stages almost always take place in the environment off of the animal, where the microenvironment is often ideal for growth. These larvae and cocoons are found deep in carpeted areas or areas with a layer of organic material (e.g., a garden or flower bed). They are protected from insecticides in this
hard-to-reach area.

Adult fleas hatch from the cocoon when proper stimulation is present. The stimuli include: vibration, increased carbon dioxide levels, heat, and motion. The adult can emerge from the cocoon in a very short time period...less than a second....and immediately jump to find a proper host. Once on the host they feed on blood obtained by biting through the skin.

An egg may develop into an adult flea within 14 days if conditions are ideal. Each fertilized female may lay as many as 25 eggs per day....more than 800 in her lifetime. In just thirty days, 25 adult female fleas can multiply to as many as a quarter of a million fleas!

The main flea affecting the dog and cat is the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis. There is a dog flea also that occasionally is responsible for flea infestations, but the majority of the time, C. felis is the flea found on dogs and cats. Fleas are insects that are highly developed and can reproduce in copious amounts when environmental conditions are ideal. High humidity and high relative temperatures provide that ideal environment.

Effective flea control requires removal of fleas from the pet, removal of fleas from the environment, and control of the life cycle of the flea. Each of these aspects is important. For example it does little good to remove all the fleas from the pet, unless fleas are
removed from the environment. Otherwise, fleas will simply jump back onto the pet and reinfest the animal, leaving you where you started.

Controlling the life cycle of the flea is especially important. One way to accomplish this is through the use of insect growth regulators. Another is by making the environment less favorable for flea development. (See Treatment of the House)

Special concerns we have in the grand scheme of flea control include safety of the products on the pets, safety to the humans in the household, environmental effects of these agents, and of course, the effectiveness of the products. More on these later...

Definitions

Knockdown 
The term knockdown indicates the ability of the insecticide to kill a flea quickly upon contact...generally a matter of minutes or less. Products with "good" knockdown include pyrethrins, some organophosphates (e.g., malathion), and citrus derivatives (e.g., d-limonene).

Residual Action
Residual action or activity indicates that the product will remain active for a longer period of time. This is a desired property for most environmental treatments. Products with
"good" residual action include microencapsulated insecticides, most organophosphates (e.g., chlorpyrifos), and carbamates (e.g., carbaryl).

LD50 (Lethal Dose 50)
The LD50 is a toxologic term indicating the dose of a drug or compound that is lethal for 50% of the test animals to which it is given. In other words, if the LD50 for drug A is
50 mg/kg, and ten test animals are given 50 mg/kg of drug A, then five of those animals will die as a result of the drug. The higher the LD50, the less lethal (or more safe) a drug or compound is to the animal tested.

Delivery Systems

Shampoos: Flea shampoos contain various insecticides that are variably effective. The primary use of a shampoo is to remove fleas that are present on the animal at the time of shampooing. For this to be effective, the shampoo should contact the pet for at least ten (10) minutes, before rinsing! Shampoos are generally considered safe products, but the label should be read. Only use a shampoo on an animal (e.g., cat or dog, etc.) for which it is labeled!

Try to keep the suds out of the eyes and ears during the bathing process. It may help to place cotton balls in the ears prior to bathing, but remember to remove them afterwards!

To shampoo a cat: Fill a pitcher with warm water. Do NOT run tap water near the cat....it will cause an undesirable reaction! Gently pour the warm water over the cat or use a sponge to wet the cat while talking softly to it. Then apply the shampoo and gently lather the soap. Gently pour the warm water from the pitcher over the cat or use a sponge to remove the soap after ten minutes of contact time. Make sure that the shampoo is labeled safe for cats!

Powders: Powders can be effective insecticides on cats and dogs. They are easy to apply: shake a small amount of powder onto the skin over the base of the tail and gently work down to the skin. Other areas that should be powdered include the rear aspects of the hind legs, the stomach area, and around the neck. It is not necessary to completely cover the animal with the powder.

Powders can make quite a mess during application. Dust may fly up and is easily inhaled by the pet and the applicator (YOU). Apply powders in well-ventilated areas. Do not apply powders if you have a respiratory disease, such as asthma.

Rinses or Dips: Rinses apply insecticides all over the animal. The main advantage of a rinse is the longer residual action of the parasiticide compared to a shampoo. Always follow label instructions, make sure the product is properly diluted, wear gloves during application, and apply in a well-ventilated area.

Rinses are applied by first bathing the pet, towel drying the pet, and then using a sponge to sponge on the properly diluted product. Cotton balls should be placed in the ears (and of course removed afterwards) and care should be taken to keep the rinse out of the eyes. The product should be applied weekly or as recommended by your veterinarian. Follow label instructions!

Sprays: Most sprays are now pump sprays vs. aerosol sprays. These can be quite effective as flea control agents, depending upon the active ingredient of the product. Sprays should be applied once to twice weekly, and in some endemic areas, every day after the animal comes in from the outdoors. It is not necessary to totally soak the animal. One or two sprays over the tail base, one on the rear aspect of each hind leg, one on the stomach area, and one or two around the neck or back is generally sufficient. You may also spray a cotton ball and wipe the spray around the eyes and ears, but try not to get the insecticide in the eyes!

A word of caution: many cats do not like sprays. The noise generated will make them run and hide, and believe me, it won't be easy to find your furry friend the next time you want to spray him/her. See the information on foams below.

Foams (i.e., Mousse) : Flea foams consist of an insecticide in a foam base. These products are excellent for spot treatment of cats that are afraid of the noisier sprays. The foam is dispensed into a (latex) gloved hand and then the foam is gently rubbed into the hair coat over the base of the tail, rear aspects of the hind legs, neck, face, and stomach areas.

Pour-ons: A common ingredient of "pour-on" flea control products is permethrin, which is a synthetic pyrethrin. (e.g., Defend ®EXSpot;,Schering-Plough) It is approved for use on dogs only (NO CATS) and labeled for use at intervals of at least one week. These products can be quite effective when used in conjunction with other flea control products Permethrin is commonly combined with pyriproxyfen (e.g., BioSpot tm; Flea & Tick Control for Dogs-Farnam; OviSpot tm; Plus Topical Flea & Tick Control -Hoechst Roussel Vet), which is an insect growth regulator. These products will not prevent the flea from biting the animal, so if the animal is allergic to flea bites and has constant exposure to fleas, they will not prevent the signs of allergies.

AdvantageTM (Bayer):

A recent addition to the family of pour-on products for flea control is AdvantageTM (Bayer). The active ingredient of this product is an insecticide, imidacloprid, which acts as a neuroinhibitor and kills adult fleas. Advantage is applied to the skin over the back, where it diffuses through the skin over the remainder of the body. Advantages: Fleas are exposed to the active insecticide upon contact : the fleas do NOT have to bite the host animal (your pet) in order to receive a lethal dose of imidacloprid. The literature with this product claims 98-100% kill of adult fleas within 24 hours and prevention of reinfestation for up to 4 weeks. Advantage is not systemically absorbed and therefore, the product is considered to be extremely safe. The label indicates that the product may be used on animals 4 months of age or older. Disadvantages: The skin may become quite greasy at the site of application....persisting up to several days.

There are no reports in the scientific literature on the efficacy of this product in field conditions (normal everyday life) as a flea control product for dogs and cats. Like all pour-on products (topicals), the efficacy of the product is reduced if the animal gets wet (e.g. rain, swimming) and re-application may be necessary.

TopSpotTM (Merial):

Another recent addition to the pour-on group is fipronil...sold as Top SpotTM; by Merial. the product was available a year ago as a spray (FrontlineTM; and is known for its excellent control of both ticks and fleas. The topical pour-on formulation makes this product much easier to use on animals with long hair.

RevolutionTM (Pfizer)

The most recent topical insecticide approved in the United States for flea control is selamectin (Revolution : Pfizer). The product is applied topically on the skin between the shoulder blades and repeated monthly. The product is labeled as safe for use in breeding animals, pregnant and lactating females, and in puppies and kittens greater than 6 weeks of age. The product kills adult fleas and prevents eggs from hatching. It has been shown to be safe in ivermectin-sensitive Collie Dogs. This product has also been labeled as effective to treat canine scabies (aka., sarcoptic mange), otoacariasis (aka., ear mites), as a preventative for heartworm infestation, and for treatment of roundworm and hookworm infestation in cats. It also is labeled as an effective agent to control ticks (Dermacentor variabilis) in dogs.

Oral insecticides: The only major oral medication used for flea control is lufenuron, available as the oral product Program ( Novartis Animal Health) for dogs or cats, or in combination with milbemycin SentinelTM, for flea control and control of heartworm and intestinal parasites. Sentinel is given once monthly and is available in a tablet form.

Flea collars / medallions: Hmmm. What can I say? My personal experiences in veterinary dermatology suggest that flea collars are fairly worthless when it comes to flea control. The best thing about the collars is the reflective material that is built into many collars. This seems to have a better chance of helping your pet than any insecticidal or repellent effects of the ingredients.

A recent paper on the efficacy of flea collars did show that flea collars containing deltamethrin or diazinon did reduce the flea population in a controlled, experimental environment by 93% for 90 days (diazinon) or 150 days (deltamethrin). HOWEVER,
93% means that 7% of the fleas survived. In addition, there is no evidence to indicate how quickly the collars might kill or repel "new" fleas in a real environmental situation. Therefore, it would seem that animals with allergic reactions to flea would not benefit as much as animals without allergic reactions. The authors opinion is that collars may be effective in some situations, IF the animal does not have flea allergy dermatitis ...otherwise.....try something else! Reference: Franc M, Cadiergues MC. Comparative activity in dogs of deltamethrin- and diazinon-impregnated collars against Ctenocephalides felis. AJVR 1998:59;59-60.

Ultrasonic flea collars are especially ineffective!
Reference: Dryden MW et al. Effects of ultrasonic flea collars on Ctenocephalides felis on cats. J Am Vet Med Assoc 195:1717-1718, 1989.


Foggers (aka., bombs, aerosols): Foggers are basically insecticides or insect growth regulators in a pressurized can. Foggers may contain one or more of several active ingredients. Activation of the fogger releases the material in a mist or fog, which the dissipates over the immediate area. Foggers do not penetrate well, nor do they deliver the ingredients under objects like beds, couches, chairs, area rugs, etc. This lack of adequate penetration, in my opinion, makes the fogger an inadequate product for flea control.

The place where foggers can be useful is a large open area, such as an unfinished basement or garage. Be sure to read the label for warnings and instructions for proper application. Foggers come in various sizes intended for varying areas (square or cubic feet), so read the label and get a fogger that is appropriate for your area! The most efficient use of foggers requires that the appropriate size is applied in several areas of a house.

House Sprays: Hand-held sprayers are the best way to deliver an insecticide to the home or other confined area. Commercial products are available, containing various effective insecticides as well as insect growth regulators. Sprays should contain a product that has good "knockdown" capability so that contact with a flea will kill that flea. (See section: Households with Infants) In general, sprays should be applied every 7-14 days in houses with an active flea problem, and they should be applied immediately after vacuuming. (See section on Treatment of the House) Sprays are more effective at reaching areas under furniture and those nooks and crannies where cats like to hide. Be sure to read labels for restrictions and application instructions.

Yard Sprays: Several yard sprays are commercially available. These generally contain insecticides that will kill fleas upon contact, have residual action, or both. See the section on Treatment of the Environment for specific instructions. In general, yard sprays are NOT necessary for effective flea control. However, problem areas in a yard may include areas under porches, under stairs, sheds or doghouses (which should be treated like the house), and areas under or around trees or bushes that are shaded. Organic material may protect fleas from exposure to the active ingredient. Always read labels for restrictions and application instructions.


Active Ingredients of Flea
Control Products

Traditional ingredients of flea control
products

Pyrethrins: Pyrethrins are insecticides derived from the chrysanthemum plant. They have good "knockdown" and are relatively safe when properly applied. Pyrethrins are found with enhancers, typically a product called piperonyl butoxide, to reduce the chance of resistance by the flea. This product is available in powders, shampoos, sprays, foggers, etc. It is widely used and only moderately toxic. (See Natural Flea Control Products for more information) 

Pyrethroids (Synthetic Pyrethrins): Pyrethroids are synthetic products, derived from the pyrethrins. Pyrethroids generally have better residual action and are less toxic than pyrethrins. Permethrin is the most commonly used pyrethroid. Pyrethroids are found in shampoos, rinses, foggers, pour-ons, and an assortment of household sprays.

Citrus derivatives: See Natural Flea Control Products

Fipronil : Fipronil is a member of the phenylpyrazole class of insecticides. This compound is very specific for invertebrates (e.g., insects) and acts basically as a neurotoxin killing fleas on contact. The product is sold as Frontline®; (Merial) as a spray to be applied topically once monthly or as a topical "pour-on" (Top SpotTM;). Gloves should be worn by humans applying this product. If the spray is used, it should be applied in a well-ventilated area. Advantages: 1) This product claims to be effective even when the animal becomes wet by bathing or swimming. 2) The product can be used on dogs and cats down to 8 weeks of age. Disadvantages: None known at this time. The product has only been available for a relatively short time in the United States, but based on reports from overseas, is quite effective.

Selemectin: Selemectin is a member of the avermectin class of insecticides. (Similar compounds include ivermectin and milbemycin oxime.) This product is sold as Revolution TM; by Pfizer Animal Health. Selemectin, like most avermectins, works by inducing a form of neuromuscular paralysis. Mammals are less susceptible than are nematodes and arthropod parasites to the specific mechanism of action, therefore these agents have a wide margin of safety to mammals. This product is labeled for parasite control against a large number and type of parasitic agents. Labeled uses of selemectin include: flea control, tick control (Dermacentor variabilis), heartworm prevention, treatment of scabies (aka, sarcoptic mange) and otoacariasis (aka, ear mites), and treatment of intestinal roundworm and hookworm infestations in cats. It is considered safe in ivermectin-sensitive collie dogs and in breeding male and female dogs and cats, and pregnant and lactating dogs and cats. If ingested by cats, it may result in salivation and vomiting.

Insect growth regulators and development inhibitors:

General comments: Insect growth regulators (IGRs) and insect development inhibitors (IDIs) are key agents for long term flea control. However, the agents do not kill adult fleas and therefore, other traditional flea control products will be necessary in an appropriate flea control program. In addition, the IGRs and IDIs appear to be very safe.

Insect growth regulators are juvenile hormone analogs (resemble the natural growth factor found in the flea) that work by interfering with egg development and molting from various life stages of the flea. The two most commonly available IGRs are methoprene (Precor®) and fenoxycarb. IGRs are found in sprays, foggers, and flea collars. They may be used on the pet or applied to the environment. An advantage of the IGRs is their high margin of safety. These are products that would be among the most safe for application in a household with infants or other people intolerant to insecticides. Methoprene is broken down by ultraviolet exposure, so fenoxycarb is the agent of choice for the outdoors. These products do NOT kill adult fleas, and therefore, are generally combined with an insecticide in most products.

Note: As of March 1996, CIBA (now Navartis Animal Health) has voluntarily withdrawn fenoxycarb from the market after government tests with exaggerated doses given to laboratory animals indicated that the product may be carcinogenic. As labeled the product appears to be very safe. Fenoxycarb may or may not return to the veterinary market when current supplies are exhausted.

Pyriproxyfen (Nylar®,McLauglin Gromley King Co.) is an insect juvenile hormone analog, similar to methoprene and fenoxycarb. Pyriproxyfen is available in premise sprays/foggers (e.g. EctoKyl®,DVM; Knockout®,Virbac), rinses for application to dogs (EctoKyl®,DVM), and sprays for topical application to dogs in products (e.g., Knockout®, Allerderm/Virbac) combined with adulticides. Advantages: This insect growth regulator is stable in UV light and is extremely safe. Pyriproxifen is proported to bind to hair and skin, which allows it to maintain efficacy even when an animal becomes wet (e.g., bathing or swimming)! If true, this would be a tremendous advantage in a flea control product. Disadvantages: KnockoutTM; is currently only labeled for use on adult dogs.

Insect development inhibitors work by interfering with a particular aspect of development. Most of these products interfere with the synthesis of chitin, a protein necessary for maturation and function of the flea exoskeleton. Chitin inhibitors include lufeneron, pyriproxyfen, and cyromazine. Cyromazine is not commercially available in the United States, but work in Australia has shown lufeneron (in a combination product with diethylcarbamazine) to be very effective in reducing the number of fleas in a controlled environment.

Lufenuron (Program®,Norvartis): This product is administered once monthly as a tablet for dogs and as a suspension for cats. Serious adverse effects of the product have not been reported. As with all insect growth regulators, lufeneron is NOT appropriate as the only flea control product if fleas are present in a household. IF lufenuron is used as the only flea control product in a household with flea infested animals, it will take 12-16 weeks to reduce the flea population to a minimal level. Therefore, insecticides effective against adult fleas should be applied to the animals and environment to maximize flea control and damage.

Lufenuron is available in an injectable (subcutaneously) form for cats. It provides up to 6 months of activity for flea control. The product is available only by prescription from a licensed veterinarian.

Sentinel tm; is a new product by Novartis Animal Health US Inc. that combines lufenuron with a drug called milbemycin oxime. Milbemycin oxime is available (and has been for years) as a once monthly oral medication to control heartworm infection AND roundworm (Toxocara canis & Toxascaris leonina), hookworm (Ancylostoma caninum), and whipworm (Trichuris vulpis) infestations (Interceptor®). The combination of these two compounds provides a convenient preventive medication for a variety of parasitic problems seen in dogs. Sentinel is now available in flavored tablets to make it easier to administer to dogs.

Advantages:Products containing lufenuron are given orally once monthly, making it extremely convenient. 2) Lufenuron is a very effective insect growth regulator. Disadvantages: Fleas from outside sources can still bite the pet causing varying
degrees of skin problems, IF the animal is exposed to an outside source of fleas (e.g., the park, neighbor animals, boarding).

The administration of lufenuron or use of other insect growth regulators is an important part of a flea preventive program.

Special Considerations

Safety: Product safety is affected by:

Toxicity of the insecticide. This varies from agent to agent, and is measured by the LD50 of an insecticide...which is the amount of agent required to kill  50% of the animals when given at that dose. Insecticides in increasing order of toxicity (based on the LD50 in rabbits) are: microencapsulated methoprene (an IGR), microencapsulated pyrethrins, cirtus derivatives (d-limonene), pyrethroids, pyrethrin, malathion, carbaryl, bendiocarb, chlorpyrifos, propoxur, lindane, and dichlorvos. From this data, we see that microencapsulated pyrethrins are relatively safe, while chlorpyrifos is relatively toxic!

Amount of exposure: Obviously, the more insecticide to which the animal (or human) is exposed, the greater the risk.

Summation effects: Drugs in the same class cause toxic effects by the same mechanism. Therefore, is it inappropriate to administer different drugs of the same class (e.g., organophosphates) to a pet. For example, an organophosphate flea powder should not be applied to an animal receiving weekly organophosphate rinses!

Microencapsulation: This is a process by which the insecticide or other agent is incorporated into microscopic spheres. These spheres release their contents under specific situations. Microencapsulation has two effects on a drug.

First, microencapsulation will reduce the availability of the drug to quickly kill a flea. It reduces the knockdown ability of a drug, but enhances the residual activity, because it "protects" the drug from breakdown. For example, pyrethrin has good knockdown but is rapidly inactivated by UV light so it has poor residual action. When microencapsulated, pyrethrins have poor knockdown, but good residual action.

Second, microencapulation increases the safety of the product. For example, the LD50 of pyrethrin is 1500 mg/kg, but when microencapsulated, the LD50 is greater than 34,000 mg/kg. Clearly, the process is a desirable one considering safety to animals and humans exposed to the drug!

Insecticides currently available as microencapsulated products include pyrethrins, chlorpyrifos, and diazinon.


Natural Flea Control
Products

Pyrethrins are insecticides derived from the chrysanthemum plant. They are common ingredients of flea control products and have excellent "knockdown" properties against fleas. They are neurotoxic at high levels, and may cause excessive salivation, vomiting, difficulty breathing, muscle tremors, depression, and ataxia (wobbling). Cats may develop excessive salivation, contractions of superficial muscles (ear flicking, paw shaking) or the signs mentioned above. However, the products are considered fairly safe when applied properly. Apply sparingly.
Reference: Hansen SR, Stemme KA, Villar D, et al. Pyrethrins and pyrethroids in dogs
and cats. Comp Cont Ed Pract Vet 16:707-712, 1994.


Rotenone is an insecticide derived from the root of Derris ellipta. It is used in shampoos, sprays, and rinses. Rotenone is quite toxic to fish and small mammals (e.g., guinea pigs), therefore caution should be exercised when applying this agent around those animals. The compound rapidly decomposes upon exposure to light and air, however ingestion by dogs or cats may result in vomiting.

Citrus fruit derivatives: D-limonene is the most commonly used derivative of citrus fruits. This substance is a volatile oil that has moderately good knockdown properties, but is fairly mild. The main advantage of this product is a high margin of safety, making it a good product for application on kittens and puppies, as well as in households with infants. Citrus derivatives are available as shampoos and rinses.
Reference: Hooser SB, et al. Effects of an insecticidal dip containing d-limonene in the cat.
J Am Vet Med Assoc 189:905-908, 1986.


Thiamine (Vitamin B1) has been often discussed, but has not been shown to be an effective flea control agent when administered orally. I'm sure some people will disagree but the scientific evidence suggests there is little value in giving your pet thiamine for flea repellent effects.
Reference: Halliwell REW. Ineffectiveness of thiamine (vitamin B1) as a flea repellent in
dogs. J Am Animl Hosp Assoc 18:423-426, 1982.


Avon's Skin-So-Soft®: Skin-So-Soft has been shown to partially repel fleas when topically applied at a concentration of 1.5 ounces of SSS per gallon of water. The repellent effect is not complete, but significantly fewer fleas were found on dogs
treated with SSS vs. water in one controlled study. The effects seem to last at least 8 days. No toxic effects of the treatment were observed in the study, however long-term effects have not been studied.
Reference: Fehrer SL, et al. Effectiveness of Avon's Skin-So-Soft as a flea repellent on dogs. J Am Anim Hosp Assoc 23:217-220, 1987.


Melaleuca oil is derived from the Australian tea-tree, Melaleuca alternifolia. It does have antibacterial and antifungal properties and has been used for those purposes topically on dogs and cats. Inappropriate application of products not intended for topical use may result in toxicity, with animals showing signs of incoordination, weakness, tremors, and depression. The efficacy of this agent to repel or kill fleas has not been established at this time. 
Reference: Nicholson SS. Toxicity of insecticides and skin care products of botanical
origin. Vet Dermatology 1995:6;139-142.


Garlic has not been shown to consistently repel fleas (despite the evidence that garlic has many beneficial effects in humans).


Cedar chips or wood may have some repellent properties, however my personal experiences suggest it is nether complete nor consistent.

Pennyroyal oil is derived from the leaves and flowers of the pennyroyal, squaw mint, or mosquito plants. Pennyroyal oil contains a volatile compound called pulegone, which is
responsible for the toxic effects of the plants. Historically, the plant has been used as an abortifacient in folklore medicine and is used as a component of fragrances. The product is used for flea control and is available in flea shampoos, powders, and as pennyroyal oil. The effectiveness of the compound is unclear, however the toxicity is clear. Exposure to pennyroyal oil may induce depression, vomiting, hepatic necrosis, diarrhea, epistaxis (nose bleeds), seizures, and death. Toxicity is dose-related and the possibility of severe signs is more likely if the pure oil is applied to the pet.
Reference: Sudekum M, et al. Pennyroyal oil toxicosis in a dog. J Am Vet Med Assoc
200:817-818, 1992.


Diatomaceous earth: Diatomaceous earth is a dessicant (drying agent) (See Treatment of the House) and also works as a chaffing agent to fleas. It may be spread in an environment to help reduce the humidity in carpet. Diatomaceous earth is available at stores catering to health or natural foods/products. Its effectiveness is variable. The product may be toxic to
humans, since it contains a significant percentage of silica, and silica can cause lung disease in humans if inhaled. An alternative to the application of diatomaceous earth is the application of the borates.

Biologic control using the nematode Steinernema carpocapsa is based on the fact that these nematodes parasitize the flea (and other insects) larvae and result in their destruction. The nematodes are applied as a spray to the ground. Application of the nematodes must be periodically repeated. This product is best suited for situations where the pet spends a high percentage of time outdoors and the product is applied to shaded areas. The full effects of this treatment on other insects (both beneficial and harmful) are unknown. This form of treatment would only be one part of a larger flea control program.
Reference: Smith CA. Searching for safe methods of flea control. J Am Vet Med Assoc
206:1137-1143, 1995.

Treatment of the Pet

It is important to treat all household pets that can carry fleas. Dogs and cats must be treated! When treating cats, always check labels to make sure the product is appropriate for use on cats!!

Recommendations

Puppies less than 8 weeks
Use flea comb multiple times daily
Apply citrus-derivative insecticide according to label instructions
Apply methoprene (IGR) topically
Change bedding / clean housing daily
If nursing, treat bitch in similar manner
Puppies greater than 8 weeks
Use flea comb multiple times daily
Apply product containing fipronil (Frontline®)
Control home environment as described above (eg, vacuuming, application of IGRs)
Initiate long term administration of oral IGR (eg, lufenuron) or topical application (pyriproxyfen @ 16 weeks)

Adult dogs
Use flea comb regularly
Shampoo with pyrethrin/pyrethroid to remove fleas
Apply topical insecticide (fipronil, imidocloprid, or permethrin combined with pyriproxyfen)
For maximum long term control, administer an IGR (oral lufenuron or topical pyriproxyfen) regularly
Treat home (indoors and outdoor) environment as described below

Kittens less than 8 weeks
As for puppies less than 8 weeks (see above)
Kittens greater than 8 weeks (less than 16 weeks)
Use flea comb daily
Apply citrus derivative insecticide according to label or apply fipronil topically as directed
Begin oral lufenuron for long term prevention

Adult cats
Use a flea comb as permitted by cat
Apply fipronil or imidocloprid insecticide once monthly according to label instructions
Consider use of oral lufenuron for long term prevention
Treat environment as described below
Barn (or feral) cats
Apply fipronil or imidocloprid topically once monthly
Treat environment with insecticide and IGR (eg, Knockout®, Virbac)
Use lufenuron if finances permit (depends on cooperation of the cats since the product is given orally or on food)

Dogs (Alternative Option A):

1.Shampoo the dog weekly using a shampoo with good knockdown properties. Pyrethrins are the most common active ingredient in shampoos.
2.Apply flea sprays containing pyrethrins or pyrethroids (e.g., permethrin) twice weekly or according to label instructions. OR apply flea powders twice weekly following label instructions.
3.Use a flea comb at regular intervals (every day or other day). Pay special attention to the back area, base of the tail, rear aspects of the hind legs and abdomen.
4.Administer an insect growth regulator on a regular basis. These may be given orally (e.g., lufeneron (Program®, CIBA) or as a topical spray (e.g, methoprene [Ovitrol Plus®, Vet Kem] applied two - three times weekly or pyriproxyfen
[Knockout®,Virbac] [EctoKyl®,DVM], applied monthly.

Dogs (Alternative Option B):

1.Apply rinses or dips at weekly to biweekly intervals. ALWAYS follow label instructions regarding treatment intervals! .... OR 2.Apply pour-on products (e.g., DefendTM,Coopers) at recommended intervals, and use flea combs every day to every
other day. ...AND 3.Administer an insect growth regulator (such as lufeneron orally
or apply pyriproxifen topically ) at regular intervals!

Cats (Alternative)

1.Use a flea comb daily. Pay special attention to the head and abdomen.
2.Apply flea foams every 5-7 days (follow label recommendations). OR.. apply flea sprays approved for cats every 3-7 days.
3.Administer lufenuron orally once monthly for long term control. Note: Once the fleas have been eliminated from the environment, lufenuron alone may be sufficient to prevent a flea infestation. However, it will not prevent fleas from outside sources from biting the cat.


Treatment of the House

1.Vacuuming: The household should be thoroughly vacuumed 1-2 times weekly.
A vacuum with a beater is more effective in open carpeted areas. Special attention
should be given to areas where the pet lounges or sleeps and high (pet) traffic areas. Areas to be considered: under beds, under couches, closets (for those cat owners), areas in front of the doors, and stairs. Don't forget to vacuum the furniture! The vacuum bag should be emptied or discarded after each vacuuming. Do not put moth balls or flea collars in the vacuum. That may result in toxic fumes being emitted from the vacuum.

Note: This is hard work! Vacuuming is intended to pick up flea eggs, larvae, and adult fleas, so it is necessary to be diligent in your vacuuming. Vacuuming may also result in adult fleas emerging from the cocoon, so it is best to spray the carpet with an insecticide with good knockdown properties after vacuuming.

2.House sprays: As mentioned above, I prefer sprays to foggers. Sprays should contain insecticides with good knockdown properties and an insect growth regulator (e.g.,
KnockoutTM,Virbac; Siphotrol Plus II ® VetKem). Unfortunately, most house sprays contain insecticides with excellent residual action but poor knockdown. It may be
necessary to find one of each. Knockdown sprays should be applied after each vacuuming. Sprays with residual insecticides and insect growth regulators should be applied every 1-2 weeks. Read and follow label recommendations.

Note: Small rodents (pet variety), birds, and fish should be protected whenever sprays or foggers are applied in the house. Read and follow label recommendations.

3.Special considerations:
Areas of high use require special attention. This includes any area where the pet spends a lot of time, such as next to the master's easy chair, under the bed, or next to the back door. Stairs or steps also should be aggressively treated, since the simple act of going up or down stairs can dislodge flea eggs from the animal and lead to accumulations of eggs and larvae in those areas.

Area rugs, floor mats, and astroturf at entrances or in entryways can be a source for continuing infestation. Be sure to clean those items and treat with insecticides/growth regulators.


4.Foggers (aka bombs): Foggers are primarily useful in large open areas like unfinished basements or garages. They do not adequately distribute the active agents under furniture (common places where flea larvae may be found). When used, foggers should contain an insecticide and insect growth regulator of some kind. (e.g. EctoKyl®,DVM or Siphotrol
Plus®, VetKem)

5.Exterminators: Professional exterminators may be helpful in some situations. However, most of the insecticides applied by exterminators are available to the public, or appropriate options are available. Exterminators are most helpful in situations where the pet owner is unable to perform the vacuuming (to the degree required) and spraying. If you choose to use a professional exterminator, be sure to get the name of the products applied (in writing) and avoid using the same products in other forms of flea control. Otherwise, toxicosis could result from cumulative effects of some insecticides.

6.Borate Carpet Treatments: The borates include sodium polyborate and boric acid. The borates are available as powders 1) for application by commercial companies, who will come into your home to apply the material, and 2) as raw borates sold by the same companies or, in some cases, over the counter at hardware stores, for application by the home owner. The borates are applied to carpeted areas, where they are worked into the carpet. Residual powder is then removed by vacuuming.

The borates work by two mechanisms. First, they are known to be intestinal poisons upon ingestion by flea larvae. Second, they may act as dessicants, drying up the micoenvironment of the flea larvae in the carpet , making it an unfavorable environment for survival.

The efficacy of these products appears to be quite high when properly applied to flea infested environment. Anecdotal reports and some studies have supported these observations. From the standpoint of effectiveness, this form of home treatment appears to be quite successful.

The toxicity of the borates is unclear. The products are definitely not the totally safe form of flea control advertised by some companies. Kidney and liver damage can result from
acute toxicosis from the borates. Clinical signs may include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, and loss of appetite. Overall, the risk of danger to pets appears to be low, unless the animal directly ingests the powder. However, the long-term health effects (to pets) of chronic exposure to low levels of borates is unknown. Risks to humans, including infants, is also unknown, but appears to be low. Since the borates can cause toxicosis in humans, the application of these products in homes with infants is not recommend by the author. Safety appears to be increased when the material is applied by a trained professional. 

Reference: Current Concepts: Searching for safe methods of flea control. JAVMA
1995:206;1137-1143.


7.Power carpet cleaners: I don't recommend power carpet cleaners or steam cleaners for flea control, although you might get a real clean carpet. Residual water dispensed by the cleaners and scrubbers will increase the humidity in the microenvironment of the carpet, and thus, could potentially increase the suitablilty of the environment for flea reproduction.



Households with Infants

Special considerations should be given before flea products are used on pets and in the environment around infants, toddlers, senior citizens, or chronically-ill humans. The safest flea control is physical removal only....vacuuming, flea combing, etc. The next safest for the
humans would include use of the oral systemic insecticides, although special caution should be taken to avoid the possibility of children handling or ingesting these products.

Products considered relatively safe include: insect growth regulators, microencapsulated insecticides, and citrus derivatives. However, all of these can be toxic (although they would require ingestion of large amounts of product). So, always exercise caution
and consult with your veterinarian before applying flea control products.


Treatment of the Environment

Treatment of the environment is defined as treating the outside areas of the home. This includes dog houses, sheds, and the yard.

1.Yards sprays containing insecticides may be used every 2-3 weeks. Fleas and larvae do not survive in areas of direct sunlight so the treatment should be concentrated in shaded
areas, areas under stairs or decks, and areas covered by Astroturf. Effective insecticides include malathion, an organophosphate insecticide that is available through pet stores, flower and garden shops, and veterinarians. As always, care should be taken to avoid spraying animals and the label should be read for dilution instructions and cautions when spraying outdoors around flowers and other plants.

Remember to use the insect growth regulator pryriproxyfen (KnockoutTM,Virbac or EctoKyl®,DVM) for outdoor use.

2.Raking: Loose organic debris should be raked and discarded, especially in areas where the pet prefers to rest or sleep. Loose organic debris, such as leaves, grass clippings, wood chips, etc., may protect the microenvironment of the flea larvae and prevent proper penetration of insecticides or growth regulators.


3.Dog houses and sheds: These areas should be treated in the same way as the house. Vacuuming or sweeping along with application of an insecticide/growth regulator is necessary.